Three Days at the Dead Sea

The timing wasn't random. The stretch between Memorial Day and Independence Day has always been complicated for Israelis. During wartime, and the current political climate in Israel, it's a different kind of heavy. We decided we needed to be outside. Moving. Together.

Michal, Yael, and I served together as artillery instructors in the IDF back in 1998: 21 months of living, eating, and everything else together. We've been friends ever since. The kind that show up when things get heavy. Three days along the Dead Sea.

Day 1 — Og Stream

We started at Og Stream on the northern shore — a 3 km walk through a dry canyon with ladders bolted into three waterfalls. Quiet and physical. Exactly the right way to start.

From there we drove to the area of Ein Kedem — for a dip in the warm mineral water at the edge of the Dead Sea. Then checked into Ein Gedi hostel, which was home for both nights.

Day 2 — Nahal Tze'elim

A 12 km hike, 6 km each way, through Nahal Tze'elim up to Ein Namer, just short of Masada. The hike is not easy: long, exposed, you earn every kilometer. At the top is Ein Namer, a natural fountain tucked under a massive rock overhang. We spent a few minutes looking for it — it's not on any obvious trail. When we finally found it, we stood there in silence. Just the three of us, the water, and the rock above us.

In the late afternoon we went back to the Dead Sea. The water doesn't move. The salt formations just sit there. We stood at the edge and felt the weight of what's happening to this place — how much of it has already disappeared.

Day 3 — Gev Chalon and Dodim Cave

A 90-minute hike to Gev Chalon — a natural rock pool sitting right at the edge of a cliff, looking out over the Dead Sea. Then down to Dodim Cave to cool off under the waterfall inside.

We ended at Dragot Cliffs for lunch. The most dramatic view on the Dead Sea. The right place to close three days.

Some trips you plan for the destination. This one we planned for each other.